Install CAMO Edge Fasteners

CAMO is an edge-screw system, not a deck-clip system. Boards do not need grooves. The heads sit at the upper board corners rather than on the walking surface. They are less prominent than face screws, though generally more noticeable than fully concealed clips.

This photo shows Brown Balau installed with the CAMO Edge Fastening System. The red circles identify the CAMO screw locations along the board edges. This helps illustrate the finished look: more discreet than surface screws, but still more visible than fully concealed clip systems.

The green circles identify board ends fastened with the Pro Plug System. This is a clean way to reduce the risk of blowing out or splitting the board corners at end joints and perimeter terminations.

This photo is also a useful reminder that mitered joints are not recommended for exterior applications. As boards undergo normal seasonal expansion and contraction, mitered corners rarely stay perfectly flush over time. Even so, this installer did a beautiful job easing the board ends for a clean finished look.

The 3/16-inch partial pre-drill is intentional: it does not fully pass through either ¾-inch or 1-inch hardwood. The edge screw's auger-style tip cuts the remaining path. The BWD instructions specify 1⅞-inch screws for boards ¾-inch thick or less and 2⅜-inch screws for boards 1 inch or thicker. Verify compatibility with your actual deck material and framing before installation.

The one-page instruction sheet also documents an alternate partial-pre-drilling setup using a 3/16-inch drill bit chucked to a specified projection of 2⅜ inches; see that PDF for the illustrated setup. Do not substitute a full-depth pilot hole for the stated method.

The Marksman Pro spaces adjacent boards at 3/16 inch, which the CAMO hardwood instructions specify as the minimum for tool clearance and seasonal movement. At board ends, angled screws can split the corner. BWD recommends staying at least 1 inch from board ends wherever possible; use additional blocking or a compatible plug/face-fastening alternative where necessary.

The Brown Balau example uses Pro Plug System fasteners near the board ends. See Chapter 05 for the existing perimeter/trim methods, and Chapter 06 for universal hardwood advice.

A thin bead of appropriate exterior subfloor adhesive along joist tops is highly recommended in BWD's CAMO instructions to minimize creaking as boards contract. It is not described as mandatory for every assembly. Because CAMO screws can be accessed from the board edges, this system can facilitate later board replacement, although adhesive may make removal more difficult.

Drilling and driving near the guide can shed small metal particles. Remove shavings immediately to reduce the risk of black iron-oxidation stains on hardwood. Follow Chapter 08 for staining and troubleshooting guidance.

Seal every freshly cut board end with an appropriate end-grain sealer to help prevent end checking (small cracks at board ends).

Apply decking oil after installation, not before, to avoid disturbing the finish during construction.

Oiling is optional. Without it, hardwood naturally weathers to a silver-gray patina. This color change does not reduce structural performance or longevity. Oiling the underside of the boards is unnecessary.

Store hardwood off the ground, out of direct sunlight, and protected from rain until installation.

If covering the lumber, use a clean, undamaged tarp and leave the sides open for airflow. Avoid wrapping or sealing the bundle tightly.

Where appropriate, place clean, non-staining spacers between board layers to improve ventilation and help the wood adjust to local conditions.

Hardwoods such as Ipe are exceptionally dense, but can be cut and drilled with conventional woodworking equipment using quality carbide-tipped blades and bits.

Fine-tooth saw blades can help produce cleaner cuts with less chipping. Expect more wear on cutting tools than with softwoods.

Manage sawdust carefully. Use appropriate dust collection and respiratory protection, position cutting operations away from occupied areas, and wash exposed skin if irritation occurs.

Use stainless-steel hardware for exposed decking fasteners. Ordinary steel can corrode when exposed to moisture, leaving dark stains around fasteners.

Similar staining can result from stray steel shavings, unprotected metal furniture, or other iron-containing debris contacting wet hardwood.

Surface stains may be removable with an appropriate wood-cleaning product, but staining can return unless the source of iron contamination is corrected.

Hardwood decking typically arrives with eased (rounded) long edges, while factory-cut ends and newly cut edges remain square.

For a more finished appearance, soften exposed square edges using an orbital sander with approximately 60-grit abrasive, or a router fitted with a 1/8-inch round-over bit.

This detail helps board ends, butt joints, and cuts around posts look consistent with the factory-finished edges.

For typical hardwood decking, 1/8-inch spacing between adjacent boards is our general recommendation, with an acceptable range of approximately 3/32 to 3/16 inch, depending on fastening system and installation conditions.

Some fastening systems establish their own spacing; for example, the CAMO system referenced in the original guide uses 3/16-inch spacing.

For end-to-end butt joints, an optional 1/16-inch gap can improve appearance by making the joint look deliberate. This is primarily an aesthetic recommendation.

Where possible, avoid 45-degree mitered joints at picture-frame corners, stair treads, and other exposed deck transitions.

Seasonal wood movement can cause mitered corners to open or become visibly misaligned over time.

Consider an alternative such as the lap-style corner joint shown in the accompanying photograph. Plan exposed joints with natural hardwood movement in mind.

Wide hardwood fascia, particularly 1×12 boards, can be susceptible to cupping when fastened directly against solid framing without adequate ventilation.

The illustration shows two approaches: bottom grooving the fascia to help relieve cupping tendencies, or installing it over vertical furring strips to create an air gap.

For the furring-strip method, the original recommendation is a 1/2- to 3/4-inch air gap, with vertical strips spaced approximately 16–24 inches apart.

Why Does Airflow Matter?

Hardwood decking naturally expands and contracts in response to moisture. When conditions above and below a board differ significantly, the wood can move unevenly, potentially causing cupping—a curve across the width of the board.

This is especially common when:

• The underside remains exposed to elevated humidity.
• The upper surface dries more quickly from sunlight and air exposure.
• Restricted airflow prevents moisture beneath the deck from dissipating.

What Happens When Airflow Is Restricted?

The first animation illustrates a deck surrounded by barriers that restrict ventilation beneath the boards.

• Moisture accumulates beneath the decking, keeping the underside relatively humid.
• Sunlight dries the upper surface, causing it to contract.
• The underside retains more moisture, creating uneven movement that can cause cupping.

How Does Improved Ventilation Help?

The second animation demonstrates how opening the sides of a deck and promoting airflow can improve moisture conditions.

• Reduce trapped humidity beneath decking.
• Minimize moisture differences between upper and lower board surfaces.
• Promote more uniform movement as conditions change.
• Reduce cupping risk and, in some cases, help affected boards recover toward a flatter shape.

Best Practices

Design hardwood decks with adequate ventilation beneath the boards whenever possible. Avoid enclosing the deck perimeter unnecessarily or creating conditions that trap moisture.

Remember: Proper airflow is not simply about drying the wood; it is about minimizing the moisture imbalance between the top and bottom of each board.

For the deeper explanation and real-world examples, read Ipe Decking Cupping: Causes, Prevention & Solutions.

Why Does Blocking Matter?

Blocking provides structural support, but excessive blocking and continuous framing surfaces can increase the risk of cupping. Large areas of direct contact can restrict drying beneath the boards.

What Does Problematic Blocking Look Like?

• Blocking perpendicular to deck boards: Localized cupping may occur where boards cross excessive framing, sometimes affecting approximately 6–8 inches of their length.
• Blocking parallel to deck boards: Continuous contact can affect a much greater portion of a board, potentially contributing to cupping along its length.

Key principle: Minimize unnecessary contact between the decking and framing.

What Are Better Framing Alternatives?

Ladder-style blocking reduces unnecessary continuous surface contact beneath the decking.

Recessed beam with furring strips: In the original example, a triple beam is set approximately 1/2 inch below adjoining joists. Narrow 1/2-inch marine-grade plywood strips, approximately 1.5–2 inches wide, restore the decking elevation while reducing continuous contact.

Best Practices

• Avoid excessive blocking beneath hardwood decking.
• Reduce unnecessary continuous contact with framing.
• Plan framing details before installation, particularly around beams.
• Maintain structural integrity. Any framing modifications must meet applicable structural requirements.

Remember: The goal is not to eliminate necessary blocking; it is to provide structural support without creating avoidable moisture traps.

See additional framing examples and retrofit strategies in our Hardwood Deck Cupping Guide.

Why Drainage Systems Affect Hardwood Decking

Under-deck drainage systems can create useful dry space beneath an elevated deck. However, some designs restrict airflow and trap humidity beneath hardwood boards, increasing cupping risk.

The critical consideration is how much ventilation remains between the decking and drainage barrier.

Comparing Drainage System Types

Membrane Systems (Rubber or Vinyl)

• Generally economical and straightforward to install.
• Can restrict airflow directly beneath the decking, particularly when installed between joists.
• May leave joists well ventilated while allowing humidity to remain trapped near the boards.

Rigid or Pan-Style Systems

• Typically installed beneath the joists.
• Can provide better airflow around decking and framing when adequate separation is maintained.
• May incorporate spacers, ventilation openings, or mechanical airflow.

Neither system automatically eliminates cupping risk. Drainage and ventilation must work together.

Maintaining Separation & Ventilation

The annotated example shows how spacers beneath the joists can create both drainage pitch and separation between the framing and rigid drainage barrier, helping preserve room for air movement.

Before selecting a drainage system, review our complete guide to hardwood deck drainage and cupping prevention.

Bottom-Grooved Hardwood Decking

Where under-deck ventilation is difficult to improve, bottom-grooved hardwood boards can help reduce the likelihood and severity of cupping by relieving some stresses associated with uneven moisture exposure.

Bottom grooving is particularly worth considering for:

• Decks above drainage systems.
• Low-clearance or enclosed decks.
• Installations with extensive framing contact.

Bottom grooving is a preventative measure, not a substitute for proper drainage and airflow.

Other Solutions for Challenging Installations

For decks with severely restricted ventilation, alternatives may include hardwood deck tiles, integrated vents, or humidity-controlled ventilation fans. Evaluate the specific deck design, drainage access, and maintenance requirements before choosing a solution.

For low-clearance installations and retrofit solutions, read Ipe Decking Cupping: Causes, Prevention & Solutions.

What you’re seeing: Boards curling across their width, lifting at the edges, or developing an uneven surface.

Why it happens: Cupping is commonly caused by unequal moisture conditions between the top and bottom of a board. Direct sunlight dries the upper surface while trapped moisture below keeps the underside damp. Restricted airflow, excessive blocking, poor drainage, and low clearance increase the risk.

What to do: Check ventilation, drainage, and moisture exposure beneath the deck. Address trapped moisture before attempting repairs. Bottom relief grooves may help in some applications, but they do not replace airflow or drainage.

What you’re seeing: Fine cracks following the grain, minor surface checking, or splits near board ends.

Why it happens: Minor surface checking is expected as natural exterior hardwood responds to changes in moisture, sunlight, and temperature. Unsealed cuts and improper fastening can contribute to more significant end splitting.

What to do: Seal fresh cut ends with end-grain wax and use appropriate predrilling and fastening techniques. Minor checking is generally cosmetic; deep cracks or splits that compromise fastening require individual evaluation.

What you’re seeing: Gaps becoming wider or narrower, sometimes unevenly across the deck.

Why it happens: Hardwood expands and contracts as its moisture content changes. Even kiln-dried boards continue responding to humidity, rainfall, and seasonal conditions.

What to do: Use the recommended starting gap for the species and fastening method. Do not install boards excessively tight. Use construction adhesive where specified for the fastening system to help control movement.

What you’re seeing: Small black spots, dark streaks, or patches that often emerge after rain.

Why it happens: Iron contamination is a frequent cause. Moisture can trigger dark reactions where iron particles contact tannin-rich wood. Sources include roofing runoff, outdoor furniture legs, railing work, drill-bit shavings, cutting metal above the deck, and microscopic filings from metal-on-metal installation tools.

What to do: Find and remove the source of contamination. For existing marks, an oxalic-acid-based wood brightener such as Messmer’s Part B may help. Follow the product instructions, test first, and rinse thoroughly with clean water.

What you’re seeing: Sweep (side-to-side curvature), bow, or twist that requires effort to align while fastening.

Why it happens: Some natural movement is normal; sound hardwood boards are not guaranteed to be perfectly straight. Longer and thicker pieces can require more installer effort.

What to do: Confirm framing alignment first. Bowrench-style straightening tools, ratchet straps, wedges, or carefully positioned chisels can help bring boards into line as fasteners are installed. Avoid damaging edges or over-stressing a board.

What you’re seeing: Brown or reddish tones gradually fading toward silver-gray, sometimes at different rates.

Why it happens: Natural silvering is expected. UV exposure changes surface color. Different sunlight, rain, and shade exposures create uneven weathering, and silvering can return between periodic oil applications.

What to do: Choose between natural gray patina and periodic cleaning and oiling to refresh the original color. Oiling slows color change but does not permanently prevent it; see Chapter 09 for maintenance expectations.

Common mistakes to avoid:

• Skipping end wax on freshly cut board ends.
• Failing to ease cut ends for clean transitions and butt joints.
• Expecting tight, flush mitered corners and interior-style trim to stay immobile outdoors.
• Improper jobsite storage, including ground contact or tightly sealed wet bundles.
• Restricting airflow beneath decking with poor drainage or excessive blocking.
• Choosing an unsuitable fastening system for the wood and exposure conditions.
• Overlooking framing alignment and support before installation.

Is oiling required?

No. It is mainly an appearance choice, not a requirement for long-term structural performance.

What happens if I don't oil?

Most Brazilian hardwoods gradually develop a natural silver-gray patina. This surface color change is expected and can also happen between periodic oil applications.

How often should I oil?

Only as needed for appearance. Sun exposure and weather determine how quickly the richer color fades.

Should I still clean the deck?

Yes. Periodically clear leaves, debris, and contaminants; keep board gaps and drainage pathways open. Cleaning and brightening can improve appearance even if you choose not to oil.

1. Too much oil: Apply one thin coat. Dense hardwood absorbs less than many people expect; avoid rollers and sprayers.
2. Skipping the backwipe: Remove excess oil with a clean rag. Shiny, sticky patches signal overapplication.
3. Applying additional coats: One coat at a time; ask BWD before attempting a second application.
4. Ignoring the weather: Apply to clean, dry decking, out of direct sunlight, and follow the product label’s temperature and rain-window guidance.

Bonus: Pressure washing is not part of BWD’s standard cleaning and oiling procedure.

Fire safety: Oil-soaked applicators and rags can ignite if improperly stored or discarded. Follow the manufacturer’s disposal instructions.

Cleaner (Part A) removes accumulated dirt and residue. Brightener (Part B) helps restore the appearance of weathered or stained wood. Exterior hardwood oil is the optional finishing step for preserving a richer tone.

For mixing ratios, surface preparation, application sequence, and safety details, follow the complete instructional guide rather than relying on a brief summary.