Sealers: Exterior Deck Application
Sealers for Brazilian decking are not necessary! Deck treatment is
only needed if you desire to keep the rich colors that exist in a new
installation. Like most wood, Brazilian decking will age to a natural
silver gray patina, and outlast most woods with no chemical coating.
Applying a preservative to Ipe and
most other Brazilian lumber is not recommended. The wood is very dense
and the chemicals do not penetrate below the surface, and besides the
ipe and many other Brazilian species have their own natural decay
defenses, so the process is not necessary.
Sealer Coat:
As suggested earlier, a sealer coat is not required to "seal" the
wood. Brazilian wood’s natural density will prevent water absorption,
thereby preventing cupping, splintering and twisting issues common
with traditional softwood decking materials. It will remain smooth and
splinter free, aging to a silver patina, but one may apply a one time
coat of a stabilizing agent right after the installation. This will
slow the acclimatization process, as the wood seasons to the local
conditions and prevent small surface checking that can occur on some
of the wood.
Deck finishes can be used to preserve the deck’s
natural color. Use a product with a strong UV inhibitor. This is a
list of recommended products.
Penofin for hardwood decks
Waterlox Marine Sealer & Finish
Cabots Australian Timber Oil
Messmers and Pro-Stain, a sealer recommended by Brazilian decking
pros.
These finishes last for 1-4 years, thus recoating
will be necessary, but frequency will vary significantly, depending on
what area of the country you live in and the weather exposure.
Excessive application of any of these oil based sealers may create a
sticky surface and will not improve their performance. Apply
a THIN coat and remove excess with a clean rag. Recoat in six
months if necessary.
Deck Cleaning:
If you have allowed the wood to age to its silver color and now have
changed your mind and would like the color back again... you can use a
pressure washer on the surface, and with some care get the original
color back. You must try and maintain an even travel across the wood
surface, or you'll leave "lap" marks on the deck, as the water
penetrates to different levels on the wood surface.... like anything
else try a small area first and gain some experience. Its best with a
commercial grade machine capable of 2500-3000 psi pressure and in some
severe cases, the use of a deck wood stripper in conjunction with the
power washer is necessary. This should remove most of the gray colored
surface film and expose the original wood coloration..... then top
coat as above.
Painting & Varnishing
IPE:
The wood is difficult to paint or varnish, thus this is not
recommended.
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